Yesterday, winter decided to return and bestow upon us the gift of an all-day snowstorm. I know, right? How thoughtful. I had neglected to check the forecast the night before, and awoke to a veil of snowflakes that would not lift until night fell.
So to counteract the dreariness of the day, I decided to indulge in one of the best summer treats that I know. I really don’t think there are any “wrong” times to have ice cream, especially when one feels toasty and warm regardless of the weather. A rather elegant older lady once encountered me enjoying a scoop of pecan praline while in my fur-trimmed heavy wool coat and leather gloves, and yes, it was the dead of winter. She proclaimed me “very odd”.
A few years ago, I went with a date to the Red Violin, a Brazilian steakhouse that must have been established by a serious carnivore. In the middle of the restaurant was a buffet setup with salads, cheese and other things (I honestly don’t remember exactly what – it’s been too long), and as you dined, all manner of grilled meats on skewers were paraded around by servers, to whom you would indicate your interest or lack thereof when each of them reached your table with their particular offering. It was at the end of the meal that I was introduced to a most delicious thing – fresh pineapple, grilled and coated with cinnamon sugar, then shaved thinly off the skewer and onto your plate while still warm. Simple and amazing.
I won’t bore you with the details of the first version I made (it was only okay – see? boring), but will certainly congratulate myself on this recipe. It is rich and creamy as ice cream should be, and full of that delicious pineapple flavour, with a hint of cinnamon to warm your tastebuds. Seriously, it’s a marvelous thing, and I’ll admit that I almost didn’t want to share.
Brazilian Pineapple Ice Cream
3/4 of a ripe pineapple – peeled, cored, and sliced 1/4” thick
3/4 cup brown sugar, packed
1/2 tbsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp allspice
2 cups heavy cream
4 egg yolks
3/4 cup white sugar
Preheat your oven to 300F. Toss pineapple slices in brown sugar, cinnamon and allspice, ensuring each slice is well coated. Spread out evenly in a pan, roast for 15 minutes, then puree in a blender.
Heat the cream over medium heat in a saucepan just until boiling. Whip the egg yolks with the white sugar until the mixture forms lemon-yellow ribbons, then temper the egg mixture by whipping in a quarter cup of the cream until well combined. Stir in another quarter cup of cream, then pour the entire egg mixture into the saucepan with the cream, and stir over medium heat until the mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat, and stir in the pineapple puree.
Cover and chill overnight, then churn in ice cream maker according to directions. Freeze for at least 6 hours before serving.